MY VIEW

by Mark S. Williams

from

The Gloucester Daily Times,
June 25, 2002

 

Mark S. Williams is a commercial diver and fisherman who lives on Bass Avenue.

The Mayor of Niles Beach

I seldom take a right onto Bass Avenue and drive the last 100 yards from its intersection with Nautilus Road, which everyone on the planet thinks is one way but isn't.

Usually I take a left to make what I call a shore run. Sometimes four or five times a day. My friends say my truck knows the way whether I am in it or not. I've seen seascapes all over the world, none can compare to these couple of miles. It's dazzling in any season but in summer it has an added attraction - Gloucester's finest kind. No, not fishermen, girls - walking, running, blading, rolling babies, biking - the hotter the weather, the better (you figure it out). I haven't run the truck on the rocks yet but I know others who have.


F/V Black Sheep moored at the end of Pirate's Lane in Gloucester. North Shore Arts Association in background.

On this day as I passed by Niles Beach and up the hill toward town, something was missing. Where was Joe? He was always standing by the wall in front of his house, walking to Niles Beach, on the beach, or in his car above the beach. On this day I ran the shore three times and no Joe.

It was a year ago as he walked up the hill from the beach to his house that it hit me, I'd seen that walk before. Joe had either Parkinson's or Alzheimer's disease. He never mentioned it, that was his way. I filed it away.

I picked up the Times a few days after my drive and flipped over, the way we all do when we get over thirty, checking the obituaries, and there he was, dead at 78.

All the trite phrases like "he died quick", "he died in his sleep", "he died painlessly" apply here. There's no good way to die, but fast is best.

He was a World War II Marine, a Gloucester firefighter, father, and diver. Joe Paynotta was not just a diver, he was The Diver. He was one of the first to dive on the Andrea Doria. They call the Andrea Doria the Mt. Everest of wreck dives. Since 1963, when Joe dove it, people have come from all over the world to dive on it. Many have died.

I asked him years later why he made a dive that is somewhere to the right of extremely hazardous and a little short of suicidal. I received a retort that explorers have given since saber-toothed tigers dined on the first of us to leave the cave. "Huh?" he bellowed, "Because it was there."

He made the dive in what I call dinosaur gear, a double hose regulator (it was a real pain to clear of water, which can really ruin a dive), no submersible pressure gauge (tells you how much air is left in your tank, always useful thing to know with a couple hundred feet of water over your head), a wet suit, mask, fins, a knife, and a weight belt. The decompression tables he dove by were designed for 20-something Navy divers in perfect shape, not 30-something divers in less than perfect shape (a decompression table tells you how long to stay at what depth to let the nitrogen bubbles dissolve out of your blood on the return from depth to avoid the bends). In the commercial diver world, we always went to the deeper tables, i.e., on a 120-foot dive we would use a 130-foot table; we called it the fat factor.

The dive on the Andrea Doria was on a 160-foot decompression table. When I was younger and much dumber, I did a 200-foot bounce dive on air. At 150-feet I was blasted out of my mind. "Nitrogen narcosis" is its technical name. "Rapture of the deep" better describes it as it's an intoxication brought on by nitrogen in your blood. The deeper you go, the more intense it gets. At 100-feet I was raptured all right. I took off after a very fine looking cod fish before realizing it was time to surface and live.

Joe did a 250 foot air dive, made the bridge of the ship, penetrated into it, and tried to take the radar off. He ran out of air, barely made the down line, and barely made the surface, blowing by all his decompression stops. He lost consciousness with a bad case of the bends (the bends can best be described as being burned alive from the inside out). He spent the better part of the day in a decompression chamber about the size of an MRI machine.

Joe was Portuguese, dark with a barrel chest. His son Steve used to call him the Brown Bear. On hot Saturday afternoons, as he and I, each on one oar of a skiff, towed him around off Niles Beach looking for a mooring, we called him other things.

During the summer Joe was easy to spot on Niles Beach. All one had to do was look for a group of bikini-clad young mommies, and there would be the Mayor of Niles dispensing advice to his council who listened to every word he had to say. Joe would have to lean forward to listen to the girls' retorts - like most divers who spend any amount of time underwater, his hearing was shot. At least that's what he told me.

Before going off and entering the world of the commercial diver, I sought Master Diver Paynotta's advice. "Think!" he shouted. "When it gets bad, think, then breathe. Don't panic. Panic and you die."

That advice saved at least two fingers, and one hand, and one day it saved my life. Thanks, Joe.

The doctors say it was some type of head trauma in the brain that occurred long ago that finally ruptured, ending his life quickly, saving him from any extended pain. I think the trauma happened when he was on the Andrea Doria, a gift to the bold man who dove on her so long ago.

I've heard more than one diver call for his mother when things went south at depth. Not Joe. As his time came to an end, Steve went to the hospital to find Joe surrounded by the nurses who had to tend him, plus every other nurse on the floor, who gravitated to the ever-joking and entertaining Joe. Why did that not surprise me?

It's been said that there are old divers and bold divers but no old, bold divers. Joe was the exception to this rule. Some say God respects nothing more than courage and bold men live in heaven forever. I'd like to believe this.

Joe, I hope the beach you sit on is as warm and soft as Niles, the view of the breakwater and the castles on the western shore as dazzling. When the southwest wind blows the water white every afternoon, I hope it is as soothing now as it was on those warm afternoons on Niles.

May all your dives be in warm water with unlimited visibility. May your air tank never run dry. Joe, I hope the girls who surround you now are even better looking than the ones on Niles and, Joe, I hope they have less clothes on.

Articles by Mark S. Williams on the Internet:

Tribute to Lobsterman John Symonds
Tribute to his Father, Ted Williams
Tribute to Andre Dubus III on LiteraryGloucester
Tribute to his Friend Joe Paynotta

Related Parlez-Moi Blog Articles

Introducing F/V Black Sheep
F/V Black Sheep in the Gloucester Daily Times
Mr. Tough Guy Stands Guard
Hello, It's Hollywod
Dolphin Tales

Afterwards...

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