Castles on the Far Shore
This current stretch of warm weather has been making working very difficult. I find excuses every day to go outside for a couple hours and just soak up the sunshine. Yesterday I went out around 11, took the car to the car wash and hosed away the winter crud, then put the top down and went cruising.
Mark was raking leaves out from under the hedges and sweeping the sidewalks. The tide was rolling in as we talked and the salt marsh that surrounds his house was filling up with shimmering, bright water. It was beautiful.
I left him to his yardwork and cruised out along the back shore and then out Eastern Point to the lighthouse. Eastern Point Lighthouse sits, in my opinion, in one of the most glorious places I have ever seen. The lighthouse stands on a promontory overlooking a breakwater. There is a marsh filled with birds behind it, the ocean sweeps around it on two sides and then there is the outer harbor. If you climb the breakwater you can see Boston to the south, Gloucester Harbor to the north with City Hall sparkling over the city and the gleaming blue towers of Our Lady of Good Voyage Church just past that with the statue of the Madonna cradling a fishing schooner in her arms between them, her hand raised in blessing over the harbor.
And on the far shore there are castles — two of them. What is it about castles? The sight of them stirs up romantic fantasies that lie buried in our subconscious from childhood tales of Cinderella and Sleeping Beauty to the tales of King Arthur and Merlin and Tristan and Isolde that filled my teenage imagination.Both of our castles were built sometime in the early part of the Twentieth century by the Hammond family. The southern castle was built by John Hays Hammond, as eccentric a fellow as ever lived. I have been inside it many times both on tours and for parties. Hammond did an interesting thing. He travelled Europe buying up pieces of crumbling castles and shipped them back here to be patched together in one of the most strange and intriguing conglomerations of a castle you could ask for. The castle has evolved a lot in the 20 years since I first visited it. Back then it was in bad disrepair. Parts of it were closed to the public because it was too dangerous. But over the years it has benefitted from some intelligent planning and is now well used for many events, private rentals, concerts, the annual Robin Hood Faire, etc.
One of the most wonderful evenings I can remember was a concert I attended in the castle’s great hall a few years back. It was a chamber ensemble, a program of mostly Brahms and Mozart, which began just at dusk.
Candles were lit in the tall iron sconces and the diamond-paned windows were open to the saltwater breezes. The soft roll of waves breaking over rocks accompanied the music. My sister Christine was with me. That evening served as the inspiration for one of the most magical chapters in my first novel.The second castle is far more mysterious. It was built by Hammond’s father and stands just outside Gloucester Harbor. It is owned by the Rev. Sun Myung Moon and is not open to the public. That veil of mystery just adds to its fascination.
Every time I drive around the back shore, which is usually every day, I notice them with appreciation. I think everyone should have castles on their far shore, something ancient and romantic and mysterious and beautiful. Something to make you dream.
Thanks for reading.


















